Tartines
One night my friend Anna and I went to a tiny restaurant Yseult recommended called "le Bistrot à Tartines" where we got one tartine with chèvre and honey, and the other with fontina, gruyère and pear. It had be a rough day of classes, but when we took a bite of these, all was right with the world. There is a spunky group that runs this quirky little place, but whatever they do with toasted bread and cheese is borderline magical. They make only tartines, homemade pies, and tarts, and you can smell the sweetness in the air from down the street. This was one of the best meals out in Rennes.
La Braderie
The biannual sales, or "soldes," happen in France every winter and summer, and the biggest bazar where stores sell all of their older merchandise is the "Grande Braderie." Stores open up stands outside and leave their doors wide open for everyone to pass through. By noon, all streets are blockaded by people and vendors. I loved finding the tapestry and antique stands next to Place du Parlement where there were rugs spread with keepsakes back from World War I and II, Breton heirlooms, and my favorite, vintage hats.
Wine and Cheese Tasting
One of our group excursions was a wine and cheese tasting night when we tried three cheeses and two wines from the Loire Valley and the Jura. The left was a Compté, the middle a Chèvre, and the right a Morbier. When Morbier is made, the first layer of curd is dusted with ashes to properly preserve the cheese, and then when the second layer is added, it leaves a thin line of ash in the center, but without any residual taste. It is smooth and delicious and definitely a favorite. I had never done a real wine and cheese pairing before though, so these combinations were especially memorable for me.
Le Parc du Thabor
The Park Thabor is a sprawling, lush garden not far from the center of town that is quiet, peaceful and filled with flowers. Whenever I had time, I came here, sometimes to do homework, other times to write postcards, but most often simply to walk around and decompress. It easily became my favorite place in Rennes. You can hear the bells of the Saint Melaine Abbey toll every few hours, and the paths are lined only with thick gravel, making you walk slower, almost as if the park deliberately wants you to stay a while.
Thabor Rose Garden
There is a long wooded pathway off the main walkway of the Thabor that lures people to walk through it. At the other end of it lies a garden, filled with roses of every color and genus, each given its own name. The first time I walked through, I had to stop several times just to take in the fragrance. It is everywhere, and with the habitual mist of Brittany becomes only more intense with the rain.
Breton Music in the Park
A final, sweet memory of Rennes was an evening in the Park, listening to Breton music and watching Breton folk dancing. It was a rare day, filled with crystal clear sun, and everyone from grandparents to toddlers came to listen to the music of their heritage. One man and his son performed a tune that had been played and sung in their family for five generations. The sound of bombards, fiddles, drums, and even bagpipes filled the Park, and when I took a moment to look away from the stage, I saw the entire first row of spectators unknowingly tapping their feet in unison with the rhythm. Some women from the crowd even took hands and began traditional Breton dances, all smiling without affectation and motioning for others to join in.
Aucun commentaire:
Enregistrer un commentaire